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Whenever curating a list of London’s top eateries, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred establishments. But, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has left the family utterly surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” states the family member, alluding to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest restaurant earning such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, toastier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own walls. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary honour.